Composition:
Anyone can point a digital camera at a  subject and get a good quality snap shot. The camera will almost insure that the  photo will be sharp and exposed correctly. However, the one thing the camera  can’t do for you is compose the shot. 
One of the major differences between average  photographers and professionals is that the pros spend a lot of time thinking  about composition while amateur’s just point and shoot.
Composition is important because it helps  set the mood for the shot and tells a story. It can also be used to evoke an  emotional response from the viewer. If you keep composition in mind whenever you  look into your viewfinder, it will eventually become second nature to you.
You will greatly improve the impact of your  photos and hopeful move out of the armature ranks by following these few easy  tips.
 The Law of  Thirds
If you mentally divide your camera  viewfinder into three horizontal and three vertical sections, where the lines  intersect are considered ideal focal points. Focal points are what the eyes are  naturally drawn to when you look at a photograph. Therefore, any one of these  focal points is a good place to position your main subject. 
It's not a hard and fast rule, but you  should always mentally divide your viewfinder into a grid and try to place your  subject at one of the focal points. The upper and lower horizontal lines  represent the ideal location to place the horizon of a landscape picture. It  depends on whether you want more surface or more sky in the  photo.
The "Law of Thirds" grid                  Example
Portraits
When taking portraits the closer you get to  the subject the better. You will focus attention to the subject by cutting down  on the amount of superfluous background detail. 
You can also bring out your main subject by  making the background go out of focus. Use your camera aperture priority mode  and set as large an f/stop (about F2.8) as your camera will allow. If your  camera has a zoom function you could use it to zoom in and achieve the same  results. Use optical zoom only for best results.
If the subject is in shadow compared to the  rest of the picture, you should use a fill-in flash to properly expose the face.  In order to eliminate shadows, do not place the subject too close to a wall  etc.
Recommended camera settings for  portraits:
Focal length:  100 mm
Aperture:  F2.8 (as large a f/stop as is available for proper exposure)
Exposure / Shooting Mode:  Aperture Priority / Portrait
Flash:  Fill-in, if face is in shadow 
Landscapes
When shooting landscapes you usually want  everything in focus all the way to infinity. Therefore, you will want to use as  small an f/stop as your camera will allow.
You should use a wide-angle lens setting and  consider adding a foreground object to help draw the eye into the photo.  Experiment by isolating different portions of the scene using an optical zoom  lens. And of course always apply the law of thirds. 
Recommended camera settings for  landscapes:
Focal length: 38  mm
Aperture:  F16 (as small a f/stop as is available for proper exposure)
Exposure / Shooting Mode:  Aperture Priority / Landscape
Tripod:  Yes, for long exposures 
Vary your shooting angle:  
Instead of always shooting at eye level try  shooting overhead, waist-level or ground-level. When photographing small  children or animals get down to their level for best results.
Steady the camera for sharp  pictures:
The key to getting sharp photos is keeping  your camera steady while pressing the shutter button. Digital cameras are so  light that special care is required to hold them steady during shooting. Squeeze  the button very gently, making sure you don't jerk the camera as you press the  shutter button.
When using an LCD preview, make sure that  you hold the camera to your body to prevent movement.
Consider using a tripod especially in low  light situations, long zooms or slow shutter speeds. If you don’t have a tripod  try leaning against a wall to help steady your shot. Another option is to rest  the camera on something solid such as a table.
You can also lock the focus and exposure by  half-pressing the shutter button. To do this, compose your shot, press the  button halfway down, and then depress it fully. The picture will be taken  immediately, so you don't have to hold steady as long.
Framing the shot:
The first thing to decide before taking a  picture is what's the main subject. To compose your shot, you either need to  move your subject around or get closer yourself. Try to frame it, so that your  intended content fills most of the picture area. Don’t forget to use the law of  thirds
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Take time to check your framing in your  camera's LCD or optical viewfinder before you press the button. Always check to  make sure that the horizon is straight.
Zoom in or move closer to your main subject  in order to reduce distracting elements.
Use movement:
Sometimes you will want to simulate movement  such as a race car going by at a racetrack. Use a fast shutter speed or pan the  camera to follow the subject to maintain focus. Done correctly, panning will  keep the subject clear, while blurring the background, giving the impression of  motion.
Getting the exposure  right:
Digital cameras use a light-sensitive chip  rather than film to capture an image. The camera is designed to let light  through a hole (aperture) on to the chip for a limited amount of time  (exposure). Digital cameras use “auto exposure” to take care of exposing the  picture for you. But there are a few things about aperture and exposure that you  should be aware of.
A digital camera will gather the same amount  of light with a large aperture and a short exposure or with a small aperture and  a long exposure, but the image won't look the same. A wider aperture will reduce  the “depth of field”, so that only objects at the focal point are in sharp  focus. This is great for isolating a person from a busy background, but not so  great for landscape photos, which require that everything be in  focus.
Cheap cameras have a fixed aperture, so only  exposure is affected by light. More expensive cameras offer “programmed  exposure” modes, such as Landscape (narrower aperture, greater depth of field,  longer exposure), Portrait (wider aperture, reduced depth of field, shorter  exposure) and Sport (shortest exposure to freeze motion), while high-end cameras  also offer full manual controls.
Even with a fully automatic camera, you can  modify the exposure. Point the camera at the object you want correctly exposed  and half-press the shutter button. Move the camera to compose your shot, and  then squeeze the button fully to take the picture.
Many landscape photos turn out too dark  because the exposure is overly influence by a bright sky. The trick is to lower  the camera so that the light meter exposes more for the foreground area and then  press the shutter button part way in order to lock in the exposure. Then  re-compose the shot as before and press the shutter completely.
Use the appropriate camera  setting:
Digital cameras allow you to take pictures  at different quality setting. The higher the setting the better the photo  quality. Higher settings use more memory then lower settings. If you intend to  make prints, always use a medium or high setting. The low setting should only be  used when all you want to do is view the pictures on your computer or send them  by email or over the Internet.
Using white balance:
Automatic exposure settings can produce an  unnatural reddish glow when shooting indoor pictures. Most digital cameras  automatically adjust the ”white balance” to compensate for oddly colored  lighting. However, this may not always result in natural looking photos. If your  camera allows you to set the “white balance” mode manually give it a try. The  result will be a picture with more natural looking colors.
Using zoom:
Most digital cameras come with a wide-angle  lens as standard. This enables you to get the whole scene into the frame without  having to stand too far back. However, it's not so great if you can't get close  to your subject. That is why it is recommended that you buy a camera that  includes a zoom lens.
Digital cameras usually have “optical zoom”  and “digital zoom”. Digital zoom is a way of using the camera electronics to  simulate additional detail, but this will produce a degraded image. It is best  to use the camera’s optical zoom and stay away from digital zoom as much as  possible.
Bear in mind that using zoom reduces depth  of field, so make sure you carefully focus on your subject, and be aware that  objects at different distances won't be as sharp. Zooming in will also magnify  camera movement, so it's very important that the camera is well  supported.
Wide-angle lenses are good for getting a  whole room into the picture but are not ideal for portrait pictures. If you get  too close with a wide-angle lens your subjects face will appear distorted. It’s  always better to stand back a bit and use some zoom. Make sure you focus on the  eyes.
Focus:
Auto-focus is great, but it isn't perfect.  Most digital cameras tend to simply focus on what’s in the center of the  picture. If your main subject is not dead center, point your camera at the  subject, half-press the shutter button, re-compose to the desired scene, then  finish pressing the shutter button. This will ensure that the main subject is  perfectly sharp.
When taking close-up photos of say flowers,  be aware of your camera limitations. Most cameras will only focus down to about  a foot or two. A better way to get real close is to use the “macro mode” if one  is available.
When taking wide-angle landscape shots, the  camera will normally focus on infinity. This may result in closer objects not  being in focus. If you focus on an object about 10 to 15 feet away, the  foreground will be sharper and you'll still get the background in focus thanks  to depth of field.
Use flash  creatively:
Generally, poor lighting conditions results  in poor pictures. Usually you don’t need flash for normal daytime outdoor shots  unless it's very gloomy. Keep in mind that flash has a very limited range so it  should only be used when the subject is fairly close. Use fill flash to help  lighten up a subject which in deep shadow.
It is best to avoid using flash indoors  unless absolutely necessary: it tends to “burn out” subjects and can create  harsh shadows. A better choice is to bounce the flash off the ceiling if your  camera and flash support this option.
Another option is to let as much daylight in  as possible and, turn on all of the lights. You have the option of using fill  flash when there's enough light in the scene but your subject isn't well  lit.
Under certain circumstances you might want  to turn the flash off and let the camera deal with the low light condition by  increasing exposure. This won't work in very dim conditions, but can give better  results than flash. Be sure to guard against camera shake.
Experiment - experiment - experiment:  
People take good pictures not cameras. It's  up to you to compose the shot carefully, making sure that the lighting is  correct, etc. Digital cameras are great for this. You can experiment by taking  as many test shots as you like using various camera settings, compositions, etc.  You get instant feed back by way of the preview screen. If you don't like the  shot, it can be deleted right away. "Practice Makes Perfect".
